Ten distinctive outlines. Start with two favorites, then compare the actual diamonds in person.
Round
Balanced & brilliant
What to look for
A circular outline with lively, brilliant-style faceting. A versatile starting point for almost any setting.
Compare light performance as you gently move the diamond.
Princess
Clean & geometric
What to look for
A square outline with pointed corners and bright, brilliant-style sparkle.
Ask how the setting protects the four corners.
Oval
Soft & elongated
What to look for
A rounded, elongated silhouette. The length-to-width ratio changes how slender or full it looks.
View the center in motion to judge any bow-tie shadow.
Marquise
Sculptural & distinctive
What to look for
An elongated outline that tapers to a point at both ends. Striking worn vertically or east-west.
Look for balanced curves and protection at both tips.
Emerald
Understated & architectural
What to look for
A rectangular step cut with cropped corners and broad, mirror-like flashes.
Its open facets make clarity and transparency easy to examine.
Pear
Expressive & elegant
What to look for
A teardrop outline that combines a rounded end with one point. Orientation is a personal choice.
Compare symmetry, the bow-tie effect and protection at the tip.
Radiant
Angular outline. Lively sparkle.
What to look for
A square or rectangular outline with cropped corners and brilliant-style faceting.
Compare shorter and more elongated proportions.
Cushion
Soft corners. Individual character.
What to look for
A pillow-like square or rectangle. Facet patterns and proportions can look very different from stone to stone.
Compare actual stones, even when their report names match.
Asscher
Graphic lines. Reflective depth.
What to look for
A square step cut with cropped corners and a geometric, layered appearance.
Look for a balanced pattern and pleasing transparency.
Heart
A personal symbol.
What to look for
A shaped brilliant with two rounded lobes, a central cleft and a pointed tip.
Check that the two sides look balanced and the outline reads clearly.
Shape and cut quality are different.
Shape describes the outline. Cut style describes the facet arrangement. Cut quality describes proportions and craftsmanship. Two diamonds with the same outline can look very different.
Diamond images: GIA. Photos show shape only; they are not an actual-size or equal-carat comparison.
The traditional scales below explain natural-diamond grading terminology. Current GIA laboratory-grown assessments are explained in Origin & reports.
THE 4Cs / CUT
Sparkle starts with cut.
Cut quality influences brightness, colored flashes called fire, and the sparkle you see as a diamond moves.
GIA gives an overall cut grade to standard round brilliant diamonds in the D-to-Z color range. Fancy shapes do not receive the same overall GIA cut grade.
GIA CUT GRADES
Excellent
Very Good
Good
Fair
Poor
When you compare
Look at the actual stone in more than one light. Judge brightness and contrast in motion. For elongated brilliant shapes, look at how any bow-tie shadow appears.
Carat measures weight. Millimeter measurements describe the diamond’s dimensions.
1.00 ctequals0.20 gram100 points = 1 carat
Look at the measurements.
Two diamonds with the same carat weight can look different in size. Shape and proportions change how the weight is distributed and how much is visible from above.
Center weight vs. total weight
A 1.50 ct center plus 0.30 ct of accent diamonds equals 1.80 ctw for those diamonds. Total carat weight does not describe the center stone alone.
Carat (ct) measures diamond weight. Karat (K), as in 14K gold, describes gold purity.
Start with the overall look. Then explore the details that hold it together.
JK & Co Jewelers via GIA
ONE FOCAL STONE
Solitaire
A single gemstone takes center stage. A plain band creates a clean, focused look.
Ask when you try it on
Compare prong and bezel versions; both can be solitaires.
Rahaminov Diamonds via GIA
SPARKLE AROUND THE CENTER
Halo
A visible frame of small diamonds surrounds the center stone when viewed from above.
Ask when you try it on
Adds visual presence without increasing the center stone’s carat weight.
Stuller, Inc. / supplier rendering
A DETAIL FROM THE SIDE
Hidden halo
Small diamonds sit beneath the center stone, usually around the basket or gallery.
Ask when you try it on
Ask to see the side view; the top can look much like a solitaire.
Marrow Fine via GIA
A SMOOTH METAL OUTLINE
Bezel
A rim of metal holds the stone around its edge. A full bezel surrounds the entire outline.
Ask when you try it on
Offers edge protection and a smooth profile; fit and construction still matter.
JK & Co Jewelers via GIA
SPARKLE ALONG THE BAND
Pavé
Closely set small diamonds create a shimmering surface, often along the shoulders or band.
Ask when you try it on
Ask about future sizing, cleaning access and routine stone checks.
Omi Privé via GIA
A CENTER WITH TWO PARTNERS
Three-stone
Two side stones frame the center. Shapes can match or create a deliberate contrast.
Ask when you try it on
Compare the size and balance of the side stones with the center.
Styles can combine.
A bezel center can have a pavé band. A ring can have a hidden halo and side stones. “Solitaire” describes a single-stone design; “bezel” describes how a stone is held.
Set an elongated stone across the finger for a different orientation. Try it alongside a north-south version.
A sculptural band
A wider or rounded band changes the balance of the ring. Compare width and thickness with the center stone.
Subtle sparkle
Keep the top view clean and add a hidden halo beneath the center.
Two-tone details
A warm gold band with a white-metal head creates contrast. Ask how each metal will be maintained.
METAL & FINISH
Set the tone.
Try your preferred shape in more than one metal color.
Warm contrast
Yellow gold
A warm tone that pairs well with clean bezels and sculptural bands. Ask to compare 14K and 18K in person.
Bright, cool finish
White gold
Often rhodium plated for a bright white finish. Replating may be needed as the finish wears.
Naturally white
Platinum
A dense metal with a substantial feel. It develops a patina with wear and can be professionally refinished.
Soft, rosy warmth
Rose gold
Its copper-containing alloy creates the color. Ask about the exact alloy if you have metal sensitivities.
14K gold is approximately 58.3% gold; 18K is 75%. Alloy, design and construction also affect wear. Ask about the exact alloy if you have metal sensitivities.
Both are diamonds. Their growth history is different.
Natural
Forms through natural geological processes within the Earth.
Choose it for its natural origin and the individual stone you love.
Laboratory-grown
Grows in a controlled environment, commonly through HPHT or CVD processes.
Compare the specific stone, its documentation and the complete ring price.
They share the diamond crystal structure and have essentially the same chemical and optical properties. Appearance alone cannot reliably establish origin; professional testing can.
Current GIA laboratory-grown assessments
GIA’s current assessment for D-to-Z laboratory-grown diamonds uses Premium or Standard. Other documents can use different terminology. Check the issuing laboratory, date and actual document when comparing stones.
Moissanite and cubic zirconia are diamond simulants. They are different materials.
Use the laboratory’s information to understand the specific diamond.
Confirm the identity
Check natural or laboratory-grown origin, the issuing laboratory and report number.
Match the measurements
Review shape, dimensions and weight. Ask the jeweler to match the diamond to its documentation.
Review the details
Check color and clarity where reported, cut grade where applicable, polish, symmetry, comments and any treatments.
Verify the record
For GIA documents, use GIA Report Check. A report describes characteristics; it is not a resale-price guarantee.
What about fluorescence?
Fluorescence is a response to ultraviolet light. A fluorescence description alone does not tell you how a diamond looks in everyday lighting. Compare the actual stone and ask about its transparency and appearance.
